A Day at the Fights: Valais Cows and International Relations


My favorite was number seventy-three. She had a certain dignity about her. When potential intruders approached her space, she gave off an aura of invincibility causing them to walk away. When potential enemies came too close, she chased them off with a simple flick of the neck. Those familiar to her stayed nearby, confident that if they were threatened she would come to their defense.
There was no question; number seventy-three was a natural leader.

When the Hérens breed of cows are put out to pasture in the mountains after the snow has disappeared, fights break out. Enclosed in a giant field, separated by ropes and painted with numbers according to their owners, the cows are initially kept in closures, pawing at the ground and bellowing for a fight. When the barriers are brought down at an exact Swiss time, the groups begin to separate, and then all hell breaks loose. 
Inalp is a special tradition in the canton of Valais. An organized version is often shown live on television with cows fighting in constructed arenas. The losers are walked off by their disappointed handlers until the undefeated queen is ceremonially crowned. Spectators come from near and far, the crowd hooting for their favorites like a World Wrestling extravaganza. The Hérens cows are even transported to other countries for their fighting spectacle.
For this New Yorker, a day in Valais near Haute Nendaz watching an Inalp was a reminder of New York City life as well as international relations.
The spectacle of the competition to determine which cow will be the leader for the entire summer season – leading up and down the mountain as well as back and forth from the barn – is a representation of more than just bovine behavior. There are clear similarities to how humans interact.
The Hérens breed is sturdy, weighing in the neighborhood of 800 kilos. There was a surprising docility about them as they were initially led around by their owners. Young women proudly promenaded them on thick ropes, showing off the magnificent bells and collars like society women showing off their dogs at the Westminster Kennel Show in Madison Square Garden. And like domestic pets, the black beasts responded to affectionate scratches and pre-fight treats.
Each owner’s group initially stayed together in a limited area enclosed with a simple rope without electricity. The cows peacefully profited from the grass and sunshine. Within each group there was a distinctive harmony, with the leader easily identifiable by a red number instead of white. Within defined borders, there was peace. Within this specific breed, each clan had its own order, although occasional pawing at the ground and bellowing indicated that eruptions of violence were just under the surface.
What happened next in the field closely resembled City life and inter-state relations Once the ropes were brought down - in a globalizing scenario - order broke down. A type of anarchy took over. Cows began to wander beyond their assigned territory; they interacted with cows from different clans beyond established borders. Fights broke out, not so much to hurt the other animals – the actual combats usually lasted no more than thirty seconds – but to establish power relations.
The object was to be the leader of the entire group. The object of each individual fight was to determine who was more powerful. The losers generally trotted away, cognizant of their defeat and accepting that they would never be leaders of the larger group. (I had a special fondness for number 101 who kept fighting although she had lost several battles. The lady just wouldn’t give up.)
What about the owners? During the fighting, they ran around the field with sticks separating cows when horns become entangled in the elegant collars and stopping other cows (third parties) from interfering. Much like international lawyers and the United Nations, the owners used soft power to keep some form of order. The cows seemed to understand the message; a mild tap (sanction) was more than enough to change behavior.
The fighting took place in a specified area that the animals never transgressed. They seemed to understand territorial limits, proportionality and the rules of the game. No electricity was needed to keep them within a given territory.  No beating needed for them to abide by customary norms. Once power relations were established among them, the cows usually returned to the area they first settled in as well as returning to their group. Once the initial surprise of being in a new surrounding with new neighbors had subsided, order returned but in a larger constituency.
The result of the afternoon’s hornbashing was that the sovereignty of the small groups had become transformed to a larger body with new borders and new power relations. The most powerful of the entire group was now the queen, the accepted leader of the different clans. She would be supreme for the summer until the cows returned to their winter barns.
Her reign would be limited by an unwritten constitution. Next year the ritual would start all over. Among the Hérens race, there is no unlimited sovereignty of a queen for life. The right to be the head of the herd must be earned each year among the new constituents. Power is not hereditary, although I was told that past winners had the advantage of knowing the terrain. Moreover, there are no coup d’etats during the grazing. Throughout the summer season, there is respect for a well-deserved authority. The rules of the game are universally accepted.
Moo. Why can’t we be more like like cows? 


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  • "Among the Hérens race, there is no unlimited sovereignty of a queen for life."
    Oui mais. Le hasard d'une grimpette à vélo* m'a fait découvrir le spectacle d'une vache d'Hérens - parfaitement noire, bien sûr - débarquant du van dans un troupeau de "locales" - imparfaitement blanches, il est vrai-. Cela a été vite fait : elle les a toutes chargées, rejetées elles les pauvres pacifistes bêlantes dans les recoins du pâturage, en moins d'une minute.
    Une image parfaite de ce que nous réserve l'avenir voulu par les immigrationnistes...
    * entre les Plans et Gryon

  • @Géo

    Grand éclat de rire en lisant votre commentaire, si je comprends bien l'analogie, le péril noir encorné ne va pas nous faire de quartiers ! Tous au coin, comme à la petite école ! Me réjouis de lire la réponse de votre ami Vincent s'il réagit...

    Attention aux grimpettes et à votre FC (loi de Starling à ne pas dépasser)

  • Ouah bah. Je ne crois pas que Vincent soit si bête, même si je lui trouve des dispositions...Blague à part, les deux paysans qui regardaient la scène n'avaient pas l'air de s'en faire. Mais cette vache hérensarde était vraiment très énervée et de toute façon impossible à maîtriser. La prochaine fois que vous traverserez un troupeau en Valais, pensez-y. Pas de provoc...

  • Rien à voir, ou presque, mais je profite de ce billet pour faire marrer Géo.
    A peine majeurs, ma copine et moi avions décidé de passer un mois à garder des vaches dans un alpage en Valais. Le paysan nous avait gardé une laitière pour que nous puissions la traire, boire son lait et sa crème, et faire du fromage.
    Seulement, ce qu'il ne nous avait pas dit c'est que son troupeau était un troupeau de reines de combat ! Il nous demandait le soir qui s'était battu contre qui et qui l'avait emporté et nous ne comprenions rien et pensions mal faire notre boulot, citadins incapables que nous étions pour calmer ces furies. Nous avons vite renoncé et du coup j'ai compris qu'on ne s'improvisait pas paysan du jour au lendemain. Malgré mes ascendances appenzelloises.

  • Pourtant, Pierre, courtes et râblées, elles sont assez bien adaptées à la morphologie des Appenzellois...

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